Two rivers converge at the heart of Chongqing, one of China’s most populous southern cities. The Yangtze and Jialing rivers have been lifelines for thousands of years and remain vital to the people who live along their banks. Despite centuries of change in the countryside, these rivers have been the constants anchoring life in the region.

The confluence of the two rivers is at a location in Chongqing called Chaotianmen, a bustling area where dozens of ferries await to transport foreign tourists and Chinese middle-class travelers to destinations upriver. The scene is alive with activity: Bang Bang men—porters unique to Chongqing, recognizable by their distinctive bamboo poles—carry boxes and bags to the boats, while hurried passengers rush to catch their rides.

Further south along the Yangtze, disused ports line the riverside, remnants of a past era. These ports, along with major factories, have been relocated to the suburbs in an effort to improve air quality. However, the water remains polluted, littered with waste from residents and industrial runoff from nearby towns and cities.

Despite the pollution, both the Yangtze and Jialing rivers attract swimmers seeking relief from Chongqing's hot, humid summers. One local swimmer notes that having swum in the river from a young age, they’ve built up a tolerance to the water and rarely fall ill, even after accidentally swallowing it.

Fishing is another common pastime for local men, who use it as an opportunity to spend leisurely days chatting and catching up with friends. Remarkably, despite the dirty water, a variety of fish still thrive in the murky depths.

As Chongqing’s population swells with migrants from rural areas, real estate along the rivers becomes increasingly expensive. Some enterprising business owners have converted large vessels into floating restaurants, adding to the unique character of the riverbanks.

If these rivers could talk, they would tell stories of spies escaping Nationalists during the Anti-Japanese War, cargo ships docking for Bang Bang men to unload, and the devastating floods of the 1990s that submerged much of the city. As Chongqing continues to reinvent itself, the Yangtze and Jialing remain unchanging witnesses to the city’s past, present, and future.